Nantes tourist information
The old capital of medieval Brittany is today the largest town in western France. Situated at the point where the Erdre and the Loire meet, it has maritime status although it’s well inland. It was for many years the most major port in France. Huge sailing ships would come up the Loire to Nantes to discharge their cargo from round the world. Today this activity has been displaced to Saint-Nazaire, on the coast. Administrationally speaking, since the Vichy government, Nantes is no longer part of Brittany. This historical “error” is criticised by Bretons and Nantais alike, because the major symbol of Brittany is in Nantes. It’s the Duke of Brittany’s palace, where the duchess Anne was born. While walking round the town, you rapidly begin to appreciate the historical importance of Nantes.
Around the Saint-Croix, you’ll find a whole section of the medieval town preserved. A lovely little tangle of narrow streets bordered with timber-beamed houses awaits you. La rue de Juiverie was the old shopping street. This leads to the Place Bouffay, which opens onto the old quays of the Loire. Saint Pierre Cathedral, magnificently restored following the roof fire in 1972, is surprisingly pure architecturally speaking, surprising when you think it took 450 years to build! Inside, you’ll find the tomb of Francois II and Marguerite de Foix, that their daughter Anne de Bretagne carved for them between 1502 and 1507. It is surrounded by 4 statues representing the cardinal virtues. Right near the cathedral, the place de la Psalette is a haven of fresh flowers and calm. A couple of steps further on, and you’ll see the vestiges of the medieval wall that surrounded Nantes.
Elsewhere, particularly in the Graslin quarter, the wealth of the ship-owners and traders was what made Nantes rich between the XVIII and XIX centuries. Unfortunately, the disgustingly named “ebony trade” was a big source of income – slavery was at its height at this time. Nantes was the main thoroughfare between the Antilles and Africa. So, a lot of pretty dirty money was made in Nantes, of which the only trace seems to be some magnificent houses, on L’ile Feydaux, Quai de la Fosse, and on la rue Kervégan. These superb buildings have ornately sculpted facades.
The shame has disappeared, slavery is forgotten, and Nantes is now renowned for its welcoming attitude to outsiders. There is a young population, more and more orientated towards the arts, with numerous festivals welcoming artists from round the world. Once known as “beautiful but sleepy”, Nantes could not be called that today. It’s dynamic, both culturally and industrially.
Having survived numerous wars, and been the subject of heated debate concerning Brittany, having been bombed in 1944, Nantes today is a dynamic city with a rare historic heritage.
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